Shop Light Mod                   Seems I've exceeded my upload limit - will put up the pics and desc. that I have so far... Please read the DISCLAIMER before attempting - this is for educational use only. This is a "Lights of America" fixture with an electronic ballast.  Your shop light may differ.  1) Be SURE that your fixture is NOT plugged in! If it is Unplug it.     2) Pull up and left on the ballast slightly to free the center metal covering.                  3) Pull the center metal covering out of the way and carefully set it aside.                   4) Using a small jeweller's screwdriver, find the tab that holds the plastic end piece in place and pry it gently so it     will be freed from the metal housing.                            5) Slide the electronics out of the plastic casing to expose the wiring. Note: the red and black wires connecting the ballast side of the bulb connections may need to be cut first - CUT NEAREST THE CIRCUIT BOARD so you have some wire to work with.         6) You'll end up cutting ALL of the wires from the ballast, so clip them off at the circuit board.  Redundant? It bears repeating: if you cut the wires at the connection end (where the tube connects to the voltage) you'll end up with a useless piece of metal and another trip down to your favorite store.               Gahhh! I goofed and didn't squeeze down the pics before I'd uploaded them! We'll continue the next time I have space... Using your Ohm-meter (am I showing my age calling it that?) test the wires that you've clipped off to find where they go. On this fixture, there are red and black on one side (nearest the ballast), and three wires (red, yellow, black) going to the far connector. Mine ohmed out showing the red and yellow wires were on the outside of the connector, while the black were on the inside. Connecting the 110V AC as noted int the instructions sent by SolCool, the "hot" goes on one side (I went for the ballast side), while the neutral goes to the other (the farthest side from the 110V AC cord). You'll have to remove the strain relief by squeezing it with pliers and pushing it through the hole, so you can get about seven inches more wire into the shop light itself: you're replacing the ballast electronics with this extra length of wire. Be careful stripping the wires on the bulb connectors, since it's easy to pull them right out of their sockets - better to nip a little bit around the wire and then pull, rather that brute-forcing it. I've wired mine with the ballast-side red wires going to the "hot" or left side of the AC receptacle, while the long red and yellow wires will be connected to the "neutral". Solder these wires together, or if you're better at remembering where your stuff is, get the wire nuts out and connect them that way, where the ballast side is "hot, and the far side is "neutral". Using your meter once again, set it for continuity and test that the "hot" prong of the plug does NOT conduct to the metal part of the shop light, and that the "neutral" does NOT conduct to the metal part of the shop light either. Next, be sure that the hot and neutral don't conduct to each other. Plug the light without the bulbs into a GFI outlet. If it pops, you didn't test the conductors correctly or you need to replace your meter. Unplug your shop light, install ONE of the bulbs and then plug it in again. If it lights up, you're golden on that side, go ahead and unplug the light, connect the other one and test again.